Style Guide

The Measure of a Man

 The most common issue with finding your proverbial sole mate is the unfortunate physiognomy we are born with, affecting matters of the heart and wardrobe. Alarmingly but not unsurprisingly most men say they find it extremely difficult to get a great fit for their formal dress shoes due to having wider widths, sunken arches or exceptionally narrow feet.

Just like finding love, one has to do some serious sole searching beforehand which of course takes a little time but is well worth getting right the first time. To find your perfect match you must first examine what kind of feet you have. Addressing a few of the most common ailments to be affect a gentleman’s foot, below I examine the models and tricks you can use to outsmart your own physical dispositions.

Flat Footed

Starting off on a flat foot, those who are vertically challenged in the arch department have it pretty tough. You’ll most likely already be (painfully) aware if you’re flat footed as you’ll have low arches and will more than likely suffer from heel and arch discomfort.

Unfortunately, most formal dress shoes aren’t catered to flat feet and lack the necessary arch support. However, a great insole will serve as the perfect support. An insole combined with a closed laced, high cut Oxford, which will hug your aches up, and lock your ankles, so to speak and giving them a necessary extra lift.

Flatter footed gentlemen should stay clear from loafers or low cut models, which give little support and should try the 48 by Banks, our regular width last with one of our supportive insoles.

48 by Banks - Full brogues Oxford

Wider Width

It is interesting to note that it is actually the toe tip of the shoe which affects the width to a certain extent. Therefore, a more curved toe, will allow your wider feet more room to move. Our 31 last was designed by Mario at the Undandy workshop with a more rounded toe for exactly this purpose. A Derby rather than an Oxford is recommended due to its open lacing system, allowing for a roomier foot. An Oxford can sometimes look a little clumsy with looser lacing to accommodate for width but the Derby covers up this and still looks on point. Our ´92 last (with a sneaker sole) is also roomier due to its rounded shape.

31 by Hercule Poirot, full brogue, brown oxford patinas, custom shoes for men

92 by Hacket, sneaker, full brogue, custom shoes for men, brown leather and green laces

Narrow Width

Most gents with narrow feet can find regular dress shoes can cause a multitude of problems. If your shoes aren’t snug, the foot can slip inside the shoe causing irritation and the blistering. Slim footed folk can find their perfect match with our 15 last, designed in the European slim silhouette our workshop is renowned for. This elegant chiselled style in a tightly laced Oxford will be sure to give a snug fit. Most importantly is the way one laces one’s shoes. Best practice is to make sure that the eyelets furthest from the tongue are firmly closed when lacing the shoes. Sounds simple enough, but as Undandy knows sometimes it is the smallest of details that make the difference.

15 by Powell

Should you need any further assistance in finding your perfect fit in style and comfort, help is at hand from our dedicated team of experts, a mere phone call or email away.